July 22 – August 17th – Home Again, Home Again, Jiggedy Jig! (Denver Leg, August 4th – 17th) Part 2

Frank and his son Bill met me at the airport in Denver. It was close
to 11 PM but we stayed up late talking and sharing our respective
experiences over the past few weeks. Bill had offered his guest room
for us probably not realizing how we can take over a place when we are
back home stocking up and making multiple trips to the various shops
and stores that are not found anywhere else. He was good-natured about
our friendly takeover. That was my only night to just sit around at
Bill's place. The next day, we both hit the ground running and often
going in opposite directions. Most days, Frank golfed and I shopped or
met with friends for breakfast or lunch.
I had a 7:30 medical check up on Friday morning, followed by breakfast
with another high school friend, Christy Lundstead (now "Warren"). As
Fate often intervenes in our lives, Christy and I had gotten linked
via Facebook while our 35th High School reunion was being planned.
Her FB profile states her home is now Parker, Colorado. I couldn't
believe that she lived in the same little community that Frank and I
had moved from. We had unknowingly been neighbors for nearly 3 years,
and yet had not seen one another since 1975. We had a lot of catching
up to do and so our breakfast lasted until mid afternoon. We rather
outstayed our welcome at "The Egg and I", so we moved over to the
Parker Library where I am a former volunteer. I ran into most of my
dear friends for and with whom I'd worked. It was a wonderful double
reunion for me. I returned to Bill's in time to get changed for
dinner with Kati and Dave Topolnicki and Scott and Chris Morlan at
Denver's oldest restaurant, The Buckhorn Exchange. The food there is
so good (they are known for their wild game and melt-in-your-mouth-
steaks), and the place is so popular that the only reservation Kati
could get for us was 5 PM. That is a good thing because by 8:00 I was
ready to fall asleep at the table.
Friday, Frank golfed. I met Molli (Halvorson) for coffee and of
course that turned into hours, then I returned to Bill's where he
prepared the most delectable crab cakes with Cajun lobster sauce that
have ever passed my lips! My taste buds danced the dance of bliss.
Bill is a closet gourmet chef. We never turn down an offering from his
galley. When Frank arrived home we hit the roadway to fight the
battle of I-25 N's Friday afternoon traffic. We were meeting Gail and
Mark Lewis and Pennie and Jim Galt for dinner. We had such fun; we
could hardly eat for the laughing and storytelling with these guys.
Saturday, we had a rare opportunity to see Katie Riley's girls, Quinn
and Taylor who happen to be at home just now. They and Quinn's beau,
Todd, prepared a feasty happy hour for us at their brand new
townhouse. My heart did not want to leave them, but we had dinner
plans with our Goddaughter Naia, and her parents Rick and Nina
Rentschler at Bones in the downtown area. Frank and I arrived with a
large gift bag packed with little puzzles, games, trinkets and
baubles, for Naia, whom we'd not seen in nearly 2 years. Rick didn't
make it, so Frank got to have a night with the girls. At just over 3
½ years old, Naia is one of the brightest and most engaging little
girls I think I've ever met. She had us laughing and eating out of her
hand the entire evening. Frank is completely enchanted and lost to

her charms. We enjoyed an all too short visit with them and promised
not to let so much time pass or Naia will be grown when we next see her.
Sunday, Frank was off again with his buddies and I got to spend the
afternoon and have lunch with my dear friend Jenn Williams. She took
me over to her new townhome in Parker and we just talked and talked.
By now my voice was in the gutter. I'd not talked this much to so
many people for so many hours at a stretch that my throat was on fire
and my vocal chords were fried. She dropped me off at Bill's in time
for me to freshen up for dinner at the home of our favorite super-hero
family, Mac and Pamela Buckland and their two kiddos, Shelby and
Blake. I say this with love and awe. If there is a super hero family
living on this Earth, they have morphed into the Bucklands. They get
our vote for mom and dad of the year and they do it all effortlessly
and naturally in spite of their busy careers. Mac follows our blogs
religiously and often queries us about the details that don't make the
blog. We dragged out the globe and had a little geography lesson with
the kids. We had a great night with the four of them.
Monday, more doctor appointments and check-ups and then afterward,
Frank and I went over to Karen's condo for a visit and Frank, being
the thoughtful father that he is, spotted a few little repair and
maintenance projects that are what we call "blue jobs" (men: blue,
women: pink), he wanted to take care of for Karen. She was overjoyed
that he could do that for her. I remembered how my dad would perform
these same little acts of love in my home when I was living the single
life. It really filled me with joy seeing Frank and Karen in that
role. Then Monday evening we finally got to have dinner with Bill and
Karen over at the home of Dick and Lee Miller. I guess their home is
as close as Frank can get to feeling back home. He and Dick are thick
as thieves and their friendship transcends time and space. Dick and
Lee are family. We love them and nearly cried leaving that night.

Tuesday, Lori Romero picked me up for morning coffee and then she and
I joined Jeri Lyn Martin for lunch and afternoon girl time. Later on,
Jeri Lyn took me back to Bill's, where Frank and I packed overnight
bags and shot over to Jeff and Jeri Lyn's house for a couple of days
with them. We figured Bill needed a little space by this time anyway.
Jeri Lyn cooked and while the boys drank some prized scotch, she and I
busied about.
Wednesday, Frank golfed with Jeff while Jeri Lyn and I shopped and
caught up with old friends, and then treated ourselves to an afternoon
of spa pedicures and manicures. We supped out at a forgettable venue
in the new Southglen area, but with these two it doesn't matter where
we are or what we eat; we just enjoy.
Thursday, Jeri Lyn took me for yet another doc. appt. (love all those
annual check-ups!), and then after soaking up another wonderful day
together she dropped me off at Bill's where we said our goodbyes.
That night we met some of our former tailgate friends, The Daleys and
the Semps over at the Morlan's home for a faux tailgate. The Daley
girls came along – always a pleasure to see them and always surprised
that they want to hang out with us old farts. The meal was a
"tailgate" extravaganza that included Scott's grilled-to-perfection
Tri Tip and a load of freshly picked Peaches and Cream corn that Tim
had brought from Brighton. As the evening wound down, Cara Morlan
arrived and regaled us with stories of her latest D.A. cases including
attending an autopsy! As my eyes drooped and my voice began to give
out we called it a wrap and headed for our little home at Bill's.
Friday, Frank and I took Bill over to The Original Pancake House for
breakfast. They have the best homemade breakfasts of anyplace on
Earth. I can't ever decide which of my favorites to have there, and
each time I go I can't wait to return to have another of my favs.
Frank left us to meet another group of buddies so Bill and I returned
to his place and just had some down time.
Our last evening was with Barb Frank and Larry Hill at De Luxe, one of
our favored dining venues in Denver. We started at De Lite the tapas
bar next-door, scarfing down several platters of Dillon's famous
Oyster Shooters, and after a while we moved over to the restaurant.
Barb has become such a regular patron that she was able to secure the
extra top secret, very private back room which she and Larry
affectionately refer to as The Bat Cave. Nice. We got very personal
treatment in there! Again, we found ourselves feeling quite exhausted
as our evening ran into late night and breezed far beyond our witching
hour. Frank and I decided that we would have to get back to Destiny
for a vacation from our vacation.
Saturday, we slept in late and then set about packing our bags for the
final leg of our stateside trip. We spent our last few hours with
Karen and Bill dining at the Cherry Creek Grill. Yummo! Bill

absolutely swears by their Prime Rib French Dip Sandwich. And now I
swear by it as well. I just don't know how they do it but it is, hands-
down, the best I've ever eaten. We lollygagged as much as we could
before the two of them drove us to the airport for our evening flight
to LAX.
Reading back over these journals of going home and the next part of
our trip in Long Beach and San Diego, I realized nearly all we did
back home was EAT! I also appreciate that we are incredibly blessed
to have so many wonderful friends and family in Texas, Colorado,
Virginia, California, and from other parts of the US who love us and
who made special arrangements to spend time with us while we were back
home. Frank often teases me about the amount of detail I put into my
journals and blogs, but then if I don't do that I won't possibly
remember it all in a few years when the memories fade. Then I
sometimes think I didn't put enough detail into my writings, in case
people are reading these and feel that I left them out or slighted
them somewhat in the story telling. Ah – it is a fine line to walk,
but at least I try. That's what matters most – the effort.
It is said, "It takes a friend to be a friend". I hope Frank and I
can live up to that definition.

July 22 – August 17th – Home Again, Home Again, Jiggedy Jig! (Houston Leg 7/22 – 8/4/10)

My flight into Houston arrived fairly late, and fortunately, my friends Debra and Sandy Sandoval live not too far from the airport and had prepared a room for me.  I had not seen them since their visit to Destiny while we were in Fiji last June.  We stayed up even later chattering away until none of us could keep our eyes open.  I awoke the next day at noon!  I had no idea how jet lagged I was.  They let me snooze away thinking I must have needed the rest, and they were right.  My body clock was way out of whack.  The entire time I spent in Houston I could not seem to get to sleep before the wee hours. 10 PM in Houston was only 3 in the afternoon Fiji time.  So you can only imagine how loopy I seemed to everyone who saw me.  I just ran around with big black circles under my eyes and feeling like I'd walked into a wall.  But that did not slow me down.   No sir-ee!  My time in Texas was a blur.

On Friday I drove over to my parents' house.  My mom always cries when she see me, so we had a weepy hug and a nice long visit before I got back on the road with all the crazed Houston drivers to negotiate my way the 60+ miles south to Seabrook. Jen was home from work by then and after I got settled into my guest room she gave me a tour of her new home. I can with good conscience say that her home is stunning! Impressive! Spectacularly larger than my starter home.  I am so proud of her I could split myself in two and not be able to hold all the joy I feel for what my little girl has accomplished.  It isn't just about the house; it is about her overcoming enormous obstacles, moving forward with a tenacious determination and working hard for what she wants, in spite of what she has endured in her short life.  She has achieved much but has only begun the journey.  Buying this home speaks volumes. She is my little fighter. And she is a delicate flower at the same time. My one regret is that I am so far away from her and from our precious grandson, Trace. My hearts swells not only with pride for her, but with an ache I cannot quell that whispers "You should be here for her and your grandson, not tens of thousands of miles away".  Yet I realize Jen is most assuredly better off not having me there to meddle and comment, suggest and urge her to do it all the way I would do it or want her to. But I cannot still the pain and guilt in my heart each time I see her and watch my grandson grow a year at a time in the minute that I saw him last.

My dear friend Sharon had flown in from Reno and on Saturday, she and Maureen drove down (from NW Houston) to visit us at Jen's. They toured her salon and her house and then we had a special afternoon and evening with them. 

Because Jen's salon is closed on Sundays and Mondays, we wanted to spend some quality time together and so on Sunday Jen, Trace, Jacob – Jen's fiancé - and I drove up to Mom and Dad's house.  We enjoyed a long visit, all had lunch together and then in late afternoon we stopped by Debra and Sandy's house where Trace was in Seventh Heaven! Debra and Sandy's home is filled with little boy delights.  They have a fully stuffed, standing bear in the office, toys and gadgets, and all sorts of interesting bits and baubles from all of their travels to various parts of the globe, and the piece de resistance is the blow-dart "gun".  Sandy has had this thing since Jennifer was a little girl.  She used to love to go blow darts at Sandy's house, and was so enthralled with it I bought her a smaller version for her birthday when she was around 9 or 10. Sandy's blow tube is nearly 5 feet long Jen's is only about 2.5 feet long. Trace has never seen Jen's set. And so he was hooked!  He loved it so much that Sandy actually sent it home with us.  We ended up staying at their house for hours while Sandy tempted Jacob with taste-testing several of his home brews and various other libations. Finally when I declared that I would be cross-eyed driving all the way back to Seabrook and that Trace was beyond his bedtime by a millennium, we bid the Sandovals good night (or was it morning?).

Monday was my day with my girl we spent nearly the entire day at her salon trying to strip the blue/black/purple/burgundy out of my hair that had been colored in New Zealand.  It was a bit of work, as whatever they'd used to color my hair over there was industrial strength and actually glowed, iridescent in the sunlight.  My poor girl stripped it three times and then tried to re-color it back to a more natural brown.  I think my hair will never be the same, until I just let it go naturally gray.  What is it with the female ego that won't allow us to age gracefully? Or ungracefully – I just wish that it was OK to wrinkle, gray, plump and jiggle without society telling us – "Oh, girl, you've let yourself go!"  I am very close and very tempted.

During the workweek, Trace normally attends summer camp, but I got to steal a couple of days with him – just the two of us. I have to re-introduce myself to him each time we are together because I am the grandma who always goes away.  I'm not altogether sure he understands where I fit into the picture but we give it a go sparring around measuring one another up and test the waters a little at a time.  I got to take him to Space Center Houston, and shopping for shoes and to the bookstore where he go to pick out a basket full of books and things.

I drove back up to the northwest part of Houston again on the 28^th not just to see my parents but for a reunion lunch with some of my classmates from 35 years ago.  My high school had held our 35^th year reunion in May (during our passage from NZ to Fiji), which I'd missed but being contacted about it had put me back in touch with friends I'd not seen or spoken to in decades. A couple of those friends arranged a lunch for us.  My girlfriends who were able to show were (former names) Karen Kleb, Melanie Angel, Luann Simms and Brenda Parks. We had a hoot catching up and my face hurt at the end of the day from smiling so much.  What a special day that was! Brenda and I actually stayed beyond the "lunch", on into dinnertime long after the others had left us.  I feel incredibly blessed to have been able to reconnect with them after all these years.

Friday was my day with Marianne and dinner with Sally.  And then on Saturday Jen, Trace and I drove up to Seagoville (south of Dallas) for a couple of days with my sister Bev, her husband D and their son Tre.  Trace and Tre were inseparable. Again, my grandson was a very happy boy getting to spend this very special time with his cousin and Uncle D. Bev, Jen and I just drank each others time up, and before we knew it we were getting back into the car Monday morning for the 6-hour drive back to Seabrook. That was a teary goodbye! My little sister is my best friend. We never seem to have enough time with one another.

The rest of my Houston visit was spent with Jen, Jacob and Trace.  On August 3^rd I hugged my baby goodbye, drove back up to my folks house to spend my final night with Mom and Dad.  It was much more difficult to say goodbye to my parents than to anyone else.  No matter how old I am, I am still their little girl about whom they worry and fret and spill tears.  I felt that familiar ache in my heart as I got into the car on August 4^th to head out.  I made one final stop at Debra and Sandy's house to check on Deb. She had just come home from the hospital after having a hip replacement.  Not surprisingly, she is getting along very well. More hugs and goodbyes and promises to see one another "down the way", and then I was off to return my rental car and board my flight to Denver.

July 19 – 22nd – Exciting Port Denarau, Fiji

We pulled into the marina of the smallest, busiest port in all of Fiji.  This is where tourists who have just landed at Nadi International Airport pour out of the buses and taxis to board the water shuttles that will take them to their island vacation in paradise at one of Fiji's thousands of incredibly beautiful resorts.  It is also where the shuttles return those sunburned yet very well vacationed tourists, laden with Fiji's finest "handicrafts", Bula Shirts, dresses and packets of dried Kava to the depot where they will be whisked off to the airport for their flight back to civilization and the stresses of every day living.  Since our visit to Fiji last year, Port Denarau has grown ten-fold.  The waterfront is now completely built out with restaurants, tour operators' headquarters, souvenir shops, clothing stores, ice cream shops, grocery stores, jewelry stores, and so on.  It is a bustling hub for those who want to eat good food, shop until they drop and even hit the pharmacy on the way in or out.  We loved the energy of Port Denarau.

Here also are yachts of every description and size; 20 ft all the way up to 200 ft in length.  They are anchored in the bay, Med Moored stern-to at the older dock and berthed at the newest pier.  Destiny will be left on the new dock where she will (hopefully) safely spend the next 30 or so days.  She is flanked by two HUGE motor yachts.  We feel very small, yet quite pleased with this arrangement.  We are flying home to the US on the 22^nd.  When we arrive in Los Angeles, we will each board another flight to separate destinations for a couple of weeks: I to Houston to see my daughter's new house, visit with my parents, friends and to hopefully see my sis and her family in the Dallas area; Frank will fly to Virginia to visit his mom, sis and my brother and all of their offspring.  He will then jet to Colombia, Missouri to attend the wedding celebration of his very dear friend, Lee Baumann.  We could not both do it all; therefore we had to make choices to maximize the visit home.  Besides, this will be good for us both to have a little space from one another after living within a 50-foot floating condo.

After getting hooked up and secured in our berth, we made reservations with the canvas maker to book in some repairs, order "clears" for the cockpit, and paid a visit to Baobab Marine to see about getting some pumps and an alternator reconditioned.  Then we went over to the Hard Rock Café to meet Jock and Leanne Tucker ("Just In Time"), and their daughter Kelly who is here for a nice long visit.  After a welcome beer at the HRC, we grabbed a quick pizza to fortify us for shopping because the girls had plans! Apparently the boys did as well, and that was to move from bar to bar in an effort to absorb the full flavor of Denarau's hospitality. We suspect it was to avoid being observed by us as we moved from store to store, because we implored them not to just sit and drink all day. Just like kids worrying over getting their hands caught in the cookie jar, they practiced stealthy maneuvers.  We girls loaded our bags with dresses, swimsuits ("togs" in Kiwi), t-shirts and gifts. Then we located the men at Lulu's Bar and Café where we rested for a bit before adjourning to clean up and meet back at the Hard Rock Cafe for dinner.

The Tuckers left the next day to take Kelly away for her Fiji vacation and we bid them farewell before getting into a cab for Nadi town where we had some business to take care of before leaving the country.  We will not likely see Jock and Leanne and most of our cruising friends again until Vanuatu in mid-Sept.  The remainder of our time in Denarau was utilized preparing for our trip home and getting everything settled aboard Destiny before leaving her for 4 weeks.

The 22^nd arrived all too quickly, and before we knew it we were boarding our Air Pacific flight for LAX. It is a nice 11-hour overnighter, and crossing the International Dateline we will gain a day, putting us into LA at 1:30 in the afternoon on July 22^nd. 

July 5 – 19, 2010 - Musket Cove, our favorite Home Away From Home in the South Pacific!

It did not take us long to fall right back into step at Musket cove.
There were so many activities for us to participate in that we just
jumped right in and started having fun. Each morning we took a long
hike over the hills of the little island. I got into Aqua Aerobics in
the mornings after our hikes, and playing cards with the girls several
afternoons per week at the café. I learned to play Baja Rummy and
Shanghai.

Frank spent a lot of time with the boys mulling over boat repairs and
leaks. This is a very social activity for them. They diagnose, then
have a few beers. Later on or the next day they start on the actual
work and then have a few beers. Then they would plan the next repair
and have a few beers. Because Frank was enjoying his repair time so
much I didn't feel terribly guilty about spending so much time with
the girls exercising and playing cards.

The World Cup (soccer) was being televised at 6:30 AM at the resort,
so Frank would awake early on those days to join Paul and Gloria
("Scallywag"), and the rest of the soccer fans to watch the matches.
Not having grown up with soccer, hence knowing nothing of the game, I
took a pass. However, I have become a fast and furious All Blacks
fan. The Tri-Nations rugby matches were going on during our stay and
so on the evenings of those events I joined the mass of humanity that
crammed into the media room at the resort to watch. Fortunately I had
Leanne and Gloria to explain rules and plays to me during the games.
It was exciting stuff indeed.

Most of our cruiser friends came and went on a daily basis to visit
other islands and would return with the timing of sporting event
telecasts. Then there were the steady-eddies among our friends who
stayed around for general R & R like us. We enjoyed a considerable
number of dinners, games and walks with "Bold Spirit" and "Mokisha",
and met lots and lots of new friends. We partied away most nights at
the Island Bar BBQ, sharing potluck dishes with other cruisers.
Sometimes our group was so large we took over the largest tables and
occasionally several tables. We had dinner and played games on each
others' yachts and watched our $2 "first run" movies that we'd
purchased in the video store at SavuSavu. This was the most social
time we have had since leaving the USA in 2008. Neither of us wanted
it to end. But as times passed, so did friends. "Scallywag", "Just In
Time", "Avant Garde", "Mahurangi" all had visitors and so they set off
island hopping with them.

On the 19th, we hugged and cried a lot as we prepared to leave for
Port Denarau. We knew that we will not see some of our friends again,
or that if we do it will be a long time until then. Some were
planning to sail back home to the US, some back to NZ and others to
who knows where. Once again, we left a piece of our hearts behind.

July 1 – 4, Lautoka – Ashes Ashes Everywhere & Happy Independence Day!

We enjoyed a beautiful day of sailing over to Lautoka, with the barrier reef to starboard and the mainland to port – it was another of those days we wished we had professional video equipment to capture the stunning beauty of this country that we feel is touched by God's own hand.  Then all too soon we had traveled 8 hours and were entering the filthy port of Lautoka.  The original plan was to anchor at the small island just across the channel, but prevailing winds made that a no-go.  We dropped the hook just off the wharf and had a restful night in spite of the putrid smell of something burning.

Arising the next day, Frank was about to plant himself in the cockpit to enjoy his morning java, when he popped right back down, breathlessly telling me not to bother going up – the entire boat was covered in black ash, ¼ inch thick.  He tiptoed his way to the anchor washdown hose and spent the next hour cleaning Destiny's decks, cockpit, rails and dinghy.  What a mess!  As my vision sharpened I noted that a fine film of ash had filtered down through the screens of our cabin's hatches, covering our room in back dust.  I stripped the bed, cleaned up the interior, and then we finally sat down to enjoy our coffee.  Afterward we went into the Customs office to "clear in".  That done, we took a cab into town and provisioned up.  We then walked over to the salon in which he and Glen had gotten their $5 haircuts last year.  When we entered the salon, the same gal who'd cut his hair previously jumped up offered him a brilliant smile and said, "It has been a long time! Where is your friend?"  Amazing that after an entire year she had remembered Frank and Glen – of course those two are hard to forget. After we finished our business in town, we returned to the boat to find her beginning to turn black again – this we found is soot from the sugarcane factory located at the wharf area.  We decided to get the heck out of Lautoka and find a better anchorage for the night, because it was too late to make it over to Musket Cove now. 

We anchored at Saweni Bay, and decided to have dinner and a movie.  I sent Frank topside to cook some beautiful lamb racks on the grill as I prepared the rest.  He kept swatting at himself, telling me that we had better make sure we have all the screens on because he is getting covered in bugs out there.  Great! The next morning we discovered what all the flying things were that had been attacking Frank.  They were huge bits of burnt sugarcane and powdered ash residue!  We had anchored downwind of the burning fields (they burn the fields after harvest), and Destiny was absolutely covered in the disgusting filth.  This time, the ash had permeated the entire boat, seeping down through the mast, the dorads (vents), the screens, etc.  It was in all of our electronic gear as well.  We just cleared a path to the cockpit and to the bow, enough to get the anchor up and get the heck out of there before it got even worse.  Some of it blew off the boat while in transit, but the inside was just awful.  It took me days to wash everything.

So, we got over that trauma and arrived at a very bustling and full Musket Cove Resort and Marina.  We dropped the hook just beside Avant Garde and Scallywag.  Many of our other friends were there including Mokisha, Bold Spirit, Nomad and Mahurangi.  We were just in time to go to shore for cocktail hour and dinner.  It felt like home.

The next day was our American 4^th of July, so Musket Cove pulled out all the stops!  We enjoyed hamburgers, hotdogs, potato salad, baked beans and apple pie.  There were fireworks on the beach and the music was All-American.  We got a little homesick enjoying this wonderful celebration with our American, Kiwi, German, French, Australian and Fijian friends. 

June 29 – July 1 – Voli Voli Bay and Beach Resort

We left Makongai, shot over to the top of Viti Levu and into Voli Voli
by early afternoon. The day was beautiful and the trip was so
pleasant we were once again enchanted with the beauty of Fiji's
beaches and coastline. Voli Voli Beach Resort stands right on the
point, high atop the bluff, and boasts an incredibly magnificent
panorama. "Just In Time" and "IQ" had also made the trip. Just after
we set the anchor the boys all went to shore for a "re-con" and to
make reservations for dinner. They returned some time later very
cheerful and full of information about the resort. We got dressed for
dinner and arrived on shore in time to share the sunset with resort
guests, and yes (!!!), we saw the Green Flash. It was quite
impressive this time.

The resort beach is very tranquil, facing a crystal clear bay that is
protected on the windward side by mangroves. A short walk up the hill
took us to the heartbeat of the resort. Here we found the restaurant/
bar/pool/activities center. And the best part is: they love and
welcome yachties. A Kiwi family owns and runs the place. It is a
multi-tiered resort and dive center that offers accommodations from
backpacker-level to upscale bungalows, and because the place is fairly
new and is still in the early stages, they are about mid-way to
completing the swim-up pool bar and sports bar. It did not take us
long to get comfy in our new surroundings. We enjoyed a very good
dinner and then spent time getting to know the owners who had stopped
by for a chat. Frank arranged to drop off our leaking dive tank the
next morning, for servicing on our way back out to the boat.

We invited Jock, Leanne, Bill and Val over for brunch the next day,
and then after spending a good bit of our morning eating, drinking
coffee and visiting we went to the resort to spend the rest of the day
at the pool. Yes, this is what we retired for – to laze around the
pool with good friends, although we don't actually get to do as much
of that as most people think. We stayed around to watch another
sunset with the guests and were treated to another brilliant Green
Flash. Wow!!!!! Frank went to the dive center to pick up our tank,
which they were able to repair for us, and when he asked what we owe
for the work they refused to take any payment. They were just happy
to help us out. What wonderful PR! They know we will either be back
or will send others to this wonderful place. I kept thinking how much
I would love to bring Jennifer and Trace here. Maybe someday.

Next morning we grabbed a cab into the little village of Raki Raki,
which was about a 30-minute ride inland. Our driver excitedly
informed us that this is the last day the village will be a village
because tomorrow it will become an official town. There would be
parades and celebrations all through the new town to mark this
historic and monumental event. We noticed a flurry of activity all
around as we neared the main street. Raki Raki is shockingly larger
than SavuSavu. It had the familiar dusty, dry and tired look of many
other villages yet the fresh market was incredibly large and
overflowing with a good variety of fruits, vegetables and spices. We
walked around a bit, browsed the shops and then settled on a place for
lunch. It was the only restaurant that appeared to be the least
likely candidate for the spread of some kind of God-knows-what
disease. It was an Indian restaurant. We have learned to be wary of
ordering beef, pork or lamb because what we often get is gristle and
fat. We also have learned that ordering fish at a place that is not
near the water may be risky as well, so I settled on chicken curry.
When ordering this dish it is often prudent to order boneless chicken.
So I did. The waiter looked at me oddly, so I asked him, "does your
chicken curry have bones?" He answered, "Oh, yes! We like the bones!
They are nice to eat – very crunchy!" Now I understood why unless the
menu states "boneless chicken" you will no doubt get your chicken
hacked up bones and all in the dish. Live and learn.

So we ended our day back at the resort for a final short visit, then
back to the boat for an early (boneless) dinner. We bid farewell to
our friends and promised to meet up again down the way. Frank and I
were heading to Lautoka while the others were sailing up into the
Yasawas. We hit the sack early because we had a long day of sailing
ahead of us meaning anchor up at 6 AM.

June 24 – 28, 2010 Makongai Island (Former Leper Colony), Fiji

We made another early departure to sail west to an island called Makongai.  We were cruising with "Just in Time", Scallywag" and "Northern Winds".  Everyone had fishing lines in the water and we followed suit.  The going was rough for the first hour or so until we were about ½ mile out of the pass. Just about that time I looked back to check our line as a large Mahi Mahi took flight.  We had hooked a beauty! Frank was just getting up to out of the cockpit to bring the big fish in when all of a sudden it was over – the fish and our rig were gone.  It happened so quickly, we were stunned. When the surprise wore off the realization that we just threw more big money into the sea hit us.  This fishing is costing us a small fortune.  Not much could be done about that.  So we settled in for the 8-hour sail, on a port tack. About 30 minutes afterward I told Frank that I smelled strong raw diesel fumes wafting up the companionway. We went below to check the locker that houses the fuel fill hose, and sure enough the bottom of the locker was sloshing with fuel.  Once again I cursed Island Packet for not only their poor design and installation of the fuel hoses but also for putting our refrigerator and freezer compressors in the bottom of the locker that was now swimming in diesel. I gathered old towels and handed Frank a bucket.  Without going into too much detail, the vent hose had been breached letting fuel literally flow out of the line and pour into the locker each time the boat heeled to starboard.  Frank spent the better part of the passage trying to stay the leak.  He was successful, but by the end of it all we both were suffering extreme nausea and terrible headaches from the dense fumes. Arriving at our destination we were still cleaning up when Jock dinghyed over to bring us a large tuna steak from their catch.  We thank him profusely and I quickly whipped out a large batch of Poisson Cru. By the time it was ready to eat, I could not.  I was so sick from the fumes I nibbled on a couple of crackers and watched Frank gobble down a large bowl-full. The next morning we were to go into shore to present our sevu sevu, but I got hit with a serious bout of stomach cramps and could not leave the boat, so Frank joined the others for a trip into shore. He returned late afternoon with a full report of the adventure.  Makongai Island is a former Leper colony. It is now a fishery, turtle preserve and giant clam farm.  The current inhabitants of the local village are all paid employees of the Fijian government.  The head guy gave our little group a tour of the now abandoned hospital and leper colony facilities.  They had some very impressive amenities, which I suppose were incentives for getting workers to come live at the place.  By 1965 leprosy was no longer an issue (cured maybe???), and the entire place was abandoned until 1982 when the Fijian government decided to install a clam farm and to establish a protected environment for the sea turtles.  Because it is protected the snorkeling is unbelievable – the diving even better.  The soft corals just explode with colors we've never seen anywhere else.  Even the clams are incredibly beautiful and absolutely huge.  One was at least as large as our dining table.  Because the corals are so healthy here great numbers of fish are happily swimming about, completely non-threatened by our presence. And the variety and colors of the fish are mind-boggling.  We could have stayed for weeks and not have dived the same site twice.  Had we not set ourselves a schedule to fly home we probably would have remained there for at least that long. This is certainly a stop worth making again – at least for those returning to Fiji.

June 17-23rd; Back to SavuSavu for a great week!

Although the snorkeling was fantastic at Albert Cove we were getting itchy to move along and start heading east, and besides we were out of fresh rations.  Weather reports did not look promising for the next few days, yet if we didn't go now then we would be socked in.  By the time we had our coffee, we figured we'd rather face a possible rough ride for 5 hours than just sit doing nothing in a soggy bay.  "IQ", "Scallywag" and "Just in Time" had all reached the same decision so off we went in a little caravan. Surprisingly, the sailing was very good.  We made fast tracks to the leeward side of Vanua Levu where the wind dropped completely leaving the waters flat calm for the last hour of the trip back into Viani Bay. Frank and I just spent one night at Viani opting to shoot straight to SavuSavu early in the morning.  "Ivory Quays" joined us.  This leg was surely the rougher one.  We had winds of up to 35 knots on the beam and 3-meter seas astern, making it a fast ride.  Happily we arrived in SavuSavu just at dusk. Our friends, Ian and Julia ("Moasi") had arrived from New Zealand, via Tonga so we made the best of our time with them while we could.  Many of our Kiwi friends were also in the anchorage making it a very festive week. Julia told me about a lady named Una, who does the best massages she has ever had, so of course I booked an hour for the next morning.  It was pretty darn good – and even better when Una charged me $30 (Fijian).  I scheduled another for the next day.   During my second massage, Una told me about her 1-½ hour body treatment for rejuvenating the sun abused skin cells, using lots of fresh fruits and veggies.  I was intrigued, so of course I booked one for the following Monday.  I have to describe it because it was so amazing.  She met me at her door with a large bag full of goodies fresh from the market.  As I disrobed behind the curtain I heard her shredding, crushing and grating cucumbers, pineapples, watermelon, ginger – it smelled heavenly! She started out with a sugar/ginger/coconut scrub.  After that she smeared me with crushed pineapple and cucumber.  She placed cucumbers on my eyes and then gave me a watermelon/cucumber facial.  Then she wrapped me up tightly while I fermented into a fruit cocktail.  After she rinsed all of that off, she gave me a honey/ginger/lime "polish."  Oh my!  I felt like a gooey dessert.  When I prepared to pay her she told me the cost was $35.  I told her NO WAY.  I paid her $60 and told her I would not consider giving her less.  The poor woman nearly cried!  I can't begin to imagine what this would have me in a spa.  So of course half the anchorage began booking treatments with dear Una.  She probably made her annual income in the few short weeks that is high season for cruisers in SavuSavu. We don't know where the time goes, but Frank and I spent most of the rest of ours getting on the internet making travel reservations to fly home in July.  One of his friends from the States is getting married in St. Louis and my daughter has just purchased her first home giving us at least two good reasons to go back for a visit.  So now that we have decided to fly home we have a lot of planning to do.  We spent a considerable amount of time doing that, shopping for food provisions and other necessities and getting together with cruising friends.  All too soon, a week had gone by.  We said good-by to Julia and Ian and several others, and in the 23rd departed for Makongai Island.

June 13-16, 2010; Return to Albert Cove and a 50th Birthday Party

We spent 3 days back in Albert Cove, two of them rained like the devil meant business. Our second night was spent on "Scallywag", celebrating Gloria's 50th birthday. What a party! The usual suspects were in attendance: "Northern Winds", Just in Time", "Destiny", "Ivory Quays". Paul turned up his i-Tunes, cleared away the table in "Scallywag's large cockpit and we danced and sang like teenagers until 2:30 in the morning.
The next day apparently no one was moving very fast, including Frank. He pulled out the James Patterson book he was reading and settled in for the day. I hitched a ride out to the reef with Kim and Bob ("NW") for a snorkel. This was by far one of my top 10. We couldn't believe how healthy the coral is and how brilliant the colors. There were lots of Christmas tree worms of a variety of colors none of us had seen before, nudibranchts (SP?), huge formations of brain and star coral and a vast variety of colorful fish. Kim and I could have gone nearly all day we were enjoying ourselves so much, but then after a while we noticed that Bob had gone back to the dinghy and was fast asleep so we called it a day. We wished that we'd had good enough weather to dive the outer reef but it was not to be. On the 16th, all but "Northern Winds" left for Viani Bay. The sail over was absolutely perfect. We arrived in time to set anchor and enjoy a quiet evening on board.

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June 8 - 12 -Naqelelevu; Aftermath of a Cyclone, Lobsters, Coconut Crabs and Good Times - Part 2

We all gathered in our dinghies over by the rocky spit of coral reef, equipped with snorkel gear, cameras and spears.

We were armed for battle and ready to fetch some lobsters. The three boys, James, Bill and took us over to an area that looked like lava rock formations. We soon found that they did not need our help in the least - they got down to serious business diving under rocks and craggy coral formations with long spears, working like mad to get into the smallest crevices to hunt the elusive crustaceans and they knew their territory well. Soon they had speared 3, and then were ready to move along to the next area. We all walked along behind them pulling our dinghies and basically frolicking like children watching in awe as the boys continued to snare one lobster after another. By noon they had gathered 7. We continued to snorkel about and try to offer some assistance although everyone knew that they needed no help from us. We managed to see some beautiful marine life in the process, including several beautiful giant clams. At one point, Paul on "Scallywag" asked the boys if they ate the clams and how they prepared them. Their response was that they are lovely, just raw and so they gave us an example. Paul took his dive knife and cut one loose from a rocky outcropping. They pried the large clam's "jaws" open and sliced the flesh out of the shell, taking care to identify the white meaty portion that is edible. We each had a taste and agreed it is delicious! Then James explained to us that we must replace the mussel of the clam and return the shell to its home so that it will regenerate. They are very mindful of protecting this environment and respecting the natural order of things. By just past mid-day, we had a total of 9 lobsters of varying sizes. We took the boys back to their home and agreed to all meet back on the beach at 4 PM for a lobster and crab feast.

I prepared Cajun dirty rice, and we packed up our plates and drinks. Then we made a care package for the three boys, including large bags of sugar, flour, rice, t-shirts, caps, old shoes and some batteries. The other cruisers did the same. They boys impressed us by building a fire on the beach and rigging three thick tree branches to support a large cooking pot. They had already prepared the coconut crabs, but we needed to cook the lobsters. We managed to get three in the pot at a time, but then the last three were so large that they had to be cooked individually. We had so much food that even between the 13 of us, we could not finish 2 of the lobsters. After dinner we stargazed and visited with the boys, and then reluctantly said goodnight and set off for our respective yachts.

The next morning, part of the group went for a snorkel of a sunken Japanese fishing boat out on the outer reef. The current is very strong and can be dangerous, therefore, Frank and I opted out, spending the day just swimming in the lagoon and taking it easy.
Our final day there, we met again at the beach to hike to the lake in the middle of the little island for a swim with the turtles. One of the conservation efforts this community makes is rescuing sea turtles when they are hatchlings, and transplanting them into the lake so that they can grow large enough to be released back into the wild. We were so excited! Regrettably, the plan got aborted after we trudged our way through the fallen trees and managed to reach the lake. The tide was out causing the lake to recede so far that we would have had to wade in mud up to our thighs for several hundred feet in order to get to the water. A few of our men gave it a go and after getting shoes and other items sucked off in the mud they declared it unsafe for us to venture further. We turned back and opted for a snorkel in a nearby lagoon. The snorkeling was great fun. Afterward we walked back over to the "village" area and were met with 2 surprises.

The boys had brought back one of the juvenile turtles for us to see. He was beautiful. We got to touch him and watch him walk (scoot) along the beach and them swim around in a sheltered area of the shallows. I got a picture of Frank holding him up. He was quite heavy, measuring about 3 ½ feet in diameter. The second surprise was a lovo feast the boys had prepared for us. A lovo is an earth oven, prepared much like a luau, cooked in the ground and covered by palm and banana leaves for several hours. They had cooked roasted 7 of their chickens for us. They were absolutely some of the most succulent and delicious chickens we have ever eaten.
To end our visit to this charming island, we brought the three boys out into the anchorage - each of us taking a turn bringing them onto our boats and visiting with them for a little while, sending them along to the next yacht with a bag full of goodies and necessities. They were thrilled to get a chance to see how we live and to tour our boats. When we said goodbye to them we all had tears in our eyes. They told us that they have never before had 5 yachts in their bay at one time. In fact, last year they only saw 2 the entire season. I felt a stab of anxiety leaving them and pray that they will succeed in their efforts to rebuild their little home.
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