Leaving Lizard Island at
7:30, we enjoyed a lovely sail of just 32 miles today to a little Island called
Howick. The winds are beginning to pick up earlier in the day which is a big improvement,
yet it was calm enough for me to make up a large batch of chocolate chip cookie
dough to freeze so we’d have energy snacks on passage across the top. I baked a
bout 10, but they didn’t last very long. Arriving at 1:30 we noted there was
nothing special about this anchorage and it wasn’t even attractive, just a
place to stop for the night to break up our trip. The shoreline was comprised
of mostly mangroves and rocky coral, although there were some structures that
may have been fishing camps or very rustic homes. We are now sailing in the
company of a few Dutch and German Yachts whom we have met along the way but
just casually. These day trips are more work than pleasure stops because we
cannot leave the boat. The anchorage was not a very comfortable one, but it was
a short stay. Tomorrow we have a big day ahead and will need to really push the
daylight, so it will be another early wakeup call for Destiny and crew.
Showing posts with label Australia (Great Barrier). Show all posts
Showing posts with label Australia (Great Barrier). Show all posts
Thursday, June 14, 2012
Wednesday, June 13, 2012
June 12, 2012 – Last Day at Lizard Island
Several boats departed Lizard Island today, Scallywag among them but they have been here for a week already. We were not yet prepared to leave this restful place knowing that for the next several days we had many one-day hops ahead of us. We spent our last day getting things in order while conditions are calm and now that things are drying out from all the rain we've had lately. Frank beached the dinghy for a good scrub inside and out, top to bottom while I washed and put away the clears around our cockpit and stowed them, bringing out the screens. We will be getting into very hot temperatures as we near the top of Australia and also into mossie territory. The screens will keep us cooler while acting as mosquito netting. Chores done, we went to the beach and just hung out. This may very well be the last time we can do this before reaching Indonesia. Fortunately Lizard Island is relatively safe from the saltwater crocs, but every future stop will be unsafe to leave the boat. In fact, we've been told by locals to make sure we hoist the dinghy every night after this stop because the crocs will puncture them. Actually, the verbiage was – "Rubber ducky's left in the water are called crocodile teething rings!" It is sort of funny.
No drama, as they say here, on our last day, just a nice lazy one. We love it here but have to get going and will have a fairly short hop tomorrow so we'll have a cuppa and then make a break for it.
Tuesday, June 12, 2012
June 11, 2012 - Hike to and Tour of Lizard Island Research Station - and a Lovely Snorkel
Monday, the marine research station at Lizard Island offered a tour of their facility and a sort of educational show-and-tell to visitors from the yachts. It begins at 11:00, but is an hour's walk from Watson's Bay. Wow, this walk is good training for building up ankles and calves because about ¾ of it is loose sugary sand. I suppose this island is similar to Fraser Island in that regard. There was just one steep part over a rocky hill and then we were back to the sand that buried our feet and twisted our ankles if we weren't careful. Arriving at the research station hot and soaked in sweat, we were all asked to take off our shoes and rinse our feet in the tub of water at the entrance. When we removed our shoes and socks sand poured out! We could fully appreciate their request otherwise they would have a sand dune to scoop up after we all left.
We were ushered into a small lounge area and offered seats, where we were shown a short but very impressive video of the workings of the research station. Students, marine biologists, scientists from all over the world study and conduct research in the station and at the underwater lab, in a strict rotation. We are after all right in the middle of the Great Barrier Reef. There are only 3 fulltime personnel stationed here. We came away from the presentation much, much more respectful of the reefs, flora and fauna below us and learned of some creatures we've never seen nor heard of before. One of those is a "manta (or mantis) shrimp".
Leaving the little room we were all led to an outdoor working lab with dozens of small glass tanks containing various creatures. One of the scientists (an American) directed our attention to a chunk of coral in a small aquarium asking if any of us could find the octopus. We peered in but could see only the coral rock, yet sure enough a tiny octopus was attached and utterly disguised exactly conforming to the colors and surface structure of the coral. The only way we could spot it was by it's breathing. Wow! We've probably passed right on by these little guys when diving or snorkeling and had never known. The scientist is studying the tiny octopus's behaviors under varying conditions and stimuli.
Next we met another (American) marine biologist who had one of the manta shrimp about 2.5 inches long displayed in another aquarium. This is a bizarre little creature. It has a tail more resembling a lobster than a shrimp, and "arms" that it keeps folded up under the head sort of like a praying mantis but these arms are weapons of alien strength. It strikes with such velocity that a larger specimen would be able to break the glass in the tank! One appendage punches; the other "arm" is a spike. Anyone reading this should go to YouTube and watch some of the videos of Mantis Shrimp; they are very aggressive. The arms move lightening fast, and to demonstrate, he placed a metallic looking pen into the tank and immediately the shrimp attacked by striking it, yet no one saw the arm move we just heard at loud "thwack!" and saw the pen jerk. The young scientist studying this creature gave us some amazing information on this little fellow and of course urged us never to try to approach or pick one up that we may see swimming around. He then gave each of us a go with the pen - it was frightening to feel the strength of that punch. Later toward the end of our tour, another biologist (a female American) who had just brought in a massive manta shrimp in a bucket showed us her find. Unbelievable - it was as large as a lobster, and we are told very tasty as well but we may never find out for ourselves. The rest of the hour was filled with more exhibits and larger tanks filled with purple starfish, live coral and beautifully colored fish. The final exhibit was a very large crown-of-thorns starfish in a large tank. We've seen several of these while snorkeling in Fiji. We took a lot of information away with us and were seriously awed. At the end we were escorted back to the lounge area to peruse the collection of books, videos, etc. We each decided to buy a t-shirt to commemorate the visit and then on the way out our hostess pointed to a bench full of dive skins and wetsuits telling us to help ourselves if we would like one, as these are being cycled out. That was nice. They are well used but with plenty of life left in them there was one left as we passed by and so we picked it up.
Somehow the trek back seemed longer but I'm sure that is because it was much hotter now. We rested a bit onboard and then jumped into the water in for a snorkel over to the Clam Garden, which was just a short swim away. I must say we have done a fair bit of diving and rarely have we seen such a colorful, healthy and lively reef. We couldn't believe we forgot the camera. It was a fantastic large reef brimming with literally hundreds of corals, assorted creatures and clams, some up to 5 feet in diameter, their "lips" a variety of colors, mostly deep rich purples and bright greens, blues and yellows. They look like velvet but are mighty strong, and if we were to get too close could lose an appendage in a heartbeat. There were also large rocklike structures absolutely covered with the zig-zaggy mouths of clams. It was an eerie sight - as though the actual clams were trapped inside this huge rock and all we could see were the lips pulsing. It reminded me of a horror movie where all these souls were trapped in a wall crying out for help. Then at one particular section about 12 giant clams were sitting into the sand facing upward as they do their lips the colors of the rainbow (once again I regretted not having brought the darn camera). My gosh, what a sight! We then came to an area of beautiful blossoms of coral whereupon some of the prettiest neon bright fish were feeding: blues, yellows, greens, pinks oranges, reds their colors so bright it was as if they were lit from the inside. There were also several patches of coral that first appeared white but then would sort of glow fluorescent green like a light stick. Amazing. Just when Frank motioned for me to start moving back toward the boat a sea turtle swam within arm's reach of me. I was so stunned I popped up to get Frank's attention and surprisingly when I looked back down the turtle was still with me. We swam along together for several minutes, the turtle and me. I was so very tempted to reach out to touch it and could have easily done so because it was utterly unperturbed by my proximity. Frank and I swam along with our new friend until he surfaced, looked right at me and then in a breath was gone. This was a magical experience. Although Frank and I have been divers for years we came away with a renewed sense of personal responsibility and propriety toward the world below us.
----------
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We were ushered into a small lounge area and offered seats, where we were shown a short but very impressive video of the workings of the research station. Students, marine biologists, scientists from all over the world study and conduct research in the station and at the underwater lab, in a strict rotation. We are after all right in the middle of the Great Barrier Reef. There are only 3 fulltime personnel stationed here. We came away from the presentation much, much more respectful of the reefs, flora and fauna below us and learned of some creatures we've never seen nor heard of before. One of those is a "manta (or mantis) shrimp".
Leaving the little room we were all led to an outdoor working lab with dozens of small glass tanks containing various creatures. One of the scientists (an American) directed our attention to a chunk of coral in a small aquarium asking if any of us could find the octopus. We peered in but could see only the coral rock, yet sure enough a tiny octopus was attached and utterly disguised exactly conforming to the colors and surface structure of the coral. The only way we could spot it was by it's breathing. Wow! We've probably passed right on by these little guys when diving or snorkeling and had never known. The scientist is studying the tiny octopus's behaviors under varying conditions and stimuli.
Next we met another (American) marine biologist who had one of the manta shrimp about 2.5 inches long displayed in another aquarium. This is a bizarre little creature. It has a tail more resembling a lobster than a shrimp, and "arms" that it keeps folded up under the head sort of like a praying mantis but these arms are weapons of alien strength. It strikes with such velocity that a larger specimen would be able to break the glass in the tank! One appendage punches; the other "arm" is a spike. Anyone reading this should go to YouTube and watch some of the videos of Mantis Shrimp; they are very aggressive. The arms move lightening fast, and to demonstrate, he placed a metallic looking pen into the tank and immediately the shrimp attacked by striking it, yet no one saw the arm move we just heard at loud "thwack!" and saw the pen jerk. The young scientist studying this creature gave us some amazing information on this little fellow and of course urged us never to try to approach or pick one up that we may see swimming around. He then gave each of us a go with the pen - it was frightening to feel the strength of that punch. Later toward the end of our tour, another biologist (a female American) who had just brought in a massive manta shrimp in a bucket showed us her find. Unbelievable - it was as large as a lobster, and we are told very tasty as well but we may never find out for ourselves. The rest of the hour was filled with more exhibits and larger tanks filled with purple starfish, live coral and beautifully colored fish. The final exhibit was a very large crown-of-thorns starfish in a large tank. We've seen several of these while snorkeling in Fiji. We took a lot of information away with us and were seriously awed. At the end we were escorted back to the lounge area to peruse the collection of books, videos, etc. We each decided to buy a t-shirt to commemorate the visit and then on the way out our hostess pointed to a bench full of dive skins and wetsuits telling us to help ourselves if we would like one, as these are being cycled out. That was nice. They are well used but with plenty of life left in them there was one left as we passed by and so we picked it up.
Somehow the trek back seemed longer but I'm sure that is because it was much hotter now. We rested a bit onboard and then jumped into the water in for a snorkel over to the Clam Garden, which was just a short swim away. I must say we have done a fair bit of diving and rarely have we seen such a colorful, healthy and lively reef. We couldn't believe we forgot the camera. It was a fantastic large reef brimming with literally hundreds of corals, assorted creatures and clams, some up to 5 feet in diameter, their "lips" a variety of colors, mostly deep rich purples and bright greens, blues and yellows. They look like velvet but are mighty strong, and if we were to get too close could lose an appendage in a heartbeat. There were also large rocklike structures absolutely covered with the zig-zaggy mouths of clams. It was an eerie sight - as though the actual clams were trapped inside this huge rock and all we could see were the lips pulsing. It reminded me of a horror movie where all these souls were trapped in a wall crying out for help. Then at one particular section about 12 giant clams were sitting into the sand facing upward as they do their lips the colors of the rainbow (once again I regretted not having brought the darn camera). My gosh, what a sight! We then came to an area of beautiful blossoms of coral whereupon some of the prettiest neon bright fish were feeding: blues, yellows, greens, pinks oranges, reds their colors so bright it was as if they were lit from the inside. There were also several patches of coral that first appeared white but then would sort of glow fluorescent green like a light stick. Amazing. Just when Frank motioned for me to start moving back toward the boat a sea turtle swam within arm's reach of me. I was so stunned I popped up to get Frank's attention and surprisingly when I looked back down the turtle was still with me. We swam along together for several minutes, the turtle and me. I was so very tempted to reach out to touch it and could have easily done so because it was utterly unperturbed by my proximity. Frank and I swam along with our new friend until he surfaced, looked right at me and then in a breath was gone. This was a magical experience. Although Frank and I have been divers for years we came away with a renewed sense of personal responsibility and propriety toward the world below us.
----------
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Monday, June 11, 2012
June 10, 2012 - Lizard Island Hike to Cook's Lookout
Today we awoke to beautiful blue skies and water so clear we could trace the anchor chain all the way to the anchor by just looking down from the bow of Destiny. Again the beauty of this place overwhelmed our senses. It is difficult to fathom and even more difficult to articulate. We enjoyed a lazy morning eating homemade yogurt and fresh fruit in the cockpit, sipping coffee and just looking around us and counting our blessings.
We have not had internet or phone service since leaving Port Douglas. Neither of us could pick up a phone signal but if I held my laptop just so, on the starboard side of the boat my broadband stick lit up and I could get 2 out of 5 bars. Not a real good signal, but good enough to pull in emails and get a couple of blog postings uploaded. It was frustrating work and we determined not to let it enslave us.
The resort is visible from here just around the Clam Garden from us, in the next bay, and although it is quite exclusive a little restaurant/bar (pub) at the end of the beach has been established for staff members. It is only open a few nights per week, however, in addition to the BBQ pits & picnic tables along Watson's Bay, it is available to us as casual guests of the island. After all the resort does not own the island. There is also a little gazebo down by the shore where several folks gathered to relax out of the sun. It's really a vey nice setup. Lizard Island is also home to a marine research station located on the other side that accommodates marine biologists from all over the world - but that is a story for tomorrow's adventure. This day we plan to hike to the top of the mount to Cook's Lookout and then tonight dine at the pub with a large contingent of cruisers.
We loaded the backpacks with fresh fruit and water, cameras, bug spray, suntan lotion, tissues and chapstick; grabbed our walking sticks and dinghied to shore. This particular mountain is one that Lieutenant James Cook (not yet Captain) climbed when he found his ship, The Endeavor, surrounded by what appeared to be impassable coral reefs. He arrived here and seeking a break in the barrier reef climbed to the top of the mount where from it's summit he was able to sight a pass only a few miles northeast of this island, which is now named Cook's Pass. I don't know who named the pass but I do know Lt. Cook named Lizard Island because the only life form he found here were lizards. We spied droves of them skittering across our path on the rocky and often very steep and barely navigable track. How he and his men did this hundreds of years ago in the type of shoes they wore and with no discernable path whatsoever is beyond us. It was another of those hikes that really got our hearts pumping. Although hot, a breeze found us from time to time cooling us down to a bearable temperature. We stopped for photos along the way, and when we reached the lower observation point that looks back over the island toward the mainland, we were met with the most stunning panorama.
It was literally the prettiest view I have seen from such a vantage point. We were blessed with a very clear day, allowing us to see for miles (often there is a marine haze in the air that can obscure everything). We also had a very clear perspective of the resort, the airstrip and the research station far below us. A little farther up is the summit where a large wooden box houses the guest book, sealed within a large plastic container. I signed the book for both of us noting entries made by others from all over the world. Next to that was a very large add-a-rock hill whereupon we each placed a new stone. The view from the summit looked out across the outer barrier reef where we could see the passage that Cook spotted back in 1770. There was just a teeny bit of haze in this direction although we had an unobscured view of many dozens of reefs that comprise the Great Barrier Reef. It was beyond breathtaking! I doubt there is another place from which this view is possible, other than from a low flying aircraft. We sat for a bit, munching on our snacks and remarked to one another that we are so very blessed to experience this because really the only people fortunate enough to come here are either guests and staff of the resort, scientists and volunteers at the research station, and those who arrive by private yacht such as ourselves.
The trip back down was nearly a skid and a trip! Frank is as surefooted as a mountain goat, but I on the other hand have no sense of balance or poise on the downhill trek. There were several patches of loose sand and gravel that had not been apparent on the hike up. They sure were now, and Frank seemingly danced right over them yet somehow my feet found every slippery last one and I nearly broke my neck on the steeper descents. The walking stick that Frank had fashioned for me back at Whitsunday Island was my savior. Part of my problem was that the view was so captivating it was distracting and I was not multitasking very well but we both made it down fine and have some beautiful pictures to show for it.
After getting cleaned up and having a short rest back on Destiny we set off for the "pub" where we met several more cruisers who are headed toward Darwin. Walking up to the little restaurant area I nearly ran into a large monitor lizard just walking around like he was one of us.
Already the various factions are forming into little caucuses. Our Kiwi friends have all sort of gathered among themselves. There is a group of Dutch traveling together, as well as some Swedes and Germans. Some others I'm not sure of, nationality-wise. There are two other American boats, Scholarship and Fearless who we think are traveling together but then we found that the owner of Fearless is actually crewing for the Aussie couple to whom he had recently sold his boat. Alliances are being forged. Frank and I are resisting becoming glued to any particular group. We rather like meeting everyone and remaining friends to anyone from any country. Eventually our table grew to overflowing with over a dozen chattering accents and dialects. We visited with them all and enjoyed a really great evening until the DJ piped the music too loud for us to hear one another. We took this as our cue to get going.
----------
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 |
| view from the boat |
We have not had internet or phone service since leaving Port Douglas. Neither of us could pick up a phone signal but if I held my laptop just so, on the starboard side of the boat my broadband stick lit up and I could get 2 out of 5 bars. Not a real good signal, but good enough to pull in emails and get a couple of blog postings uploaded. It was frustrating work and we determined not to let it enslave us.
We loaded the backpacks with fresh fruit and water, cameras, bug spray, suntan lotion, tissues and chapstick; grabbed our walking sticks and dinghied to shore. This particular mountain is one that Lieutenant James Cook (not yet Captain) climbed when he found his ship, The Endeavor, surrounded by what appeared to be impassable coral reefs. He arrived here and seeking a break in the barrier reef climbed to the top of the mount where from it's summit he was able to sight a pass only a few miles northeast of this island, which is now named Cook's Pass. I don't know who named the pass but I do know Lt. Cook named Lizard Island because the only life form he found here were lizards. We spied droves of them skittering across our path on the rocky and often very steep and barely navigable track. How he and his men did this hundreds of years ago in the type of shoes they wore and with no discernable path whatsoever is beyond us. It was another of those hikes that really got our hearts pumping. Although hot, a breeze found us from time to time cooling us down to a bearable temperature. We stopped for photos along the way, and when we reached the lower observation point that looks back over the island toward the mainland, we were met with the most stunning panorama.
It was literally the prettiest view I have seen from such a vantage point. We were blessed with a very clear day, allowing us to see for miles (often there is a marine haze in the air that can obscure everything). We also had a very clear perspective of the resort, the airstrip and the research station far below us. A little farther up is the summit where a large wooden box houses the guest book, sealed within a large plastic container. I signed the book for both of us noting entries made by others from all over the world. Next to that was a very large add-a-rock hill whereupon we each placed a new stone. The view from the summit looked out across the outer barrier reef where we could see the passage that Cook spotted back in 1770. There was just a teeny bit of haze in this direction although we had an unobscured view of many dozens of reefs that comprise the Great Barrier Reef. It was beyond breathtaking! I doubt there is another place from which this view is possible, other than from a low flying aircraft. We sat for a bit, munching on our snacks and remarked to one another that we are so very blessed to experience this because really the only people fortunate enough to come here are either guests and staff of the resort, scientists and volunteers at the research station, and those who arrive by private yacht such as ourselves.
The trip back down was nearly a skid and a trip! Frank is as surefooted as a mountain goat, but I on the other hand have no sense of balance or poise on the downhill trek. There were several patches of loose sand and gravel that had not been apparent on the hike up. They sure were now, and Frank seemingly danced right over them yet somehow my feet found every slippery last one and I nearly broke my neck on the steeper descents. The walking stick that Frank had fashioned for me back at Whitsunday Island was my savior. Part of my problem was that the view was so captivating it was distracting and I was not multitasking very well but we both made it down fine and have some beautiful pictures to show for it.
After getting cleaned up and having a short rest back on Destiny we set off for the "pub" where we met several more cruisers who are headed toward Darwin. Walking up to the little restaurant area I nearly ran into a large monitor lizard just walking around like he was one of us.
Already the various factions are forming into little caucuses. Our Kiwi friends have all sort of gathered among themselves. There is a group of Dutch traveling together, as well as some Swedes and Germans. Some others I'm not sure of, nationality-wise. There are two other American boats, Scholarship and Fearless who we think are traveling together but then we found that the owner of Fearless is actually crewing for the Aussie couple to whom he had recently sold his boat. Alliances are being forged. Frank and I are resisting becoming glued to any particular group. We rather like meeting everyone and remaining friends to anyone from any country. Eventually our table grew to overflowing with over a dozen chattering accents and dialects. We visited with them all and enjoyed a really great evening until the DJ piped the music too loud for us to hear one another. We took this as our cue to get going.
----------
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Sunday, June 10, 2012
June 9, 2012 Sailing from Hope to Lizard Island (63 NM)
Last night not long after we had set the anchor, Avant Garde took off for Lizard Island, making an overnighter of it. We wouldn't do it but to each his own they are veterans and will have a great wind for it. Later that night we looked again at our charts. If we awakened early enough and got a good start picking up the trades, which we could hear blowing with gusto all evening, we felt we would be able to make it all the way to Lizard without stopping at Cape Flattery. At Lizard Island we'll be right in the GBR, which means diving and snorkeling at our doorstep. We set the alarm for 5:30 AM before going to bed.
At 6 :00 AM we sat ready in the cockpit with coffee in hand, awaiting just enough light to pick our way through the reef system out of Hope Island. Departing winds were a bit of a disappointment, but after a couple of hours they began to steadily build allowing us to sail wing and wing again. What a beautiful day for it. There was quite a bit of traffic from big tankers and cargo ships, some of them passing close enough for us to get a good roll from their wakes, and a few barreled down on us from behind confirming why we try to stick to daytime hops. Besides who wants to miss the view? The coastline along this part of Australia is an ever changing and dramatic landscape that few others are fortunate to even glimpse. We sat for hours just watching it unfold, taking it all in like a tonic to the soul. There are endless stretches of beautiful white sand beaches, interspersed among cliffs and intensely green forests. No wonder the Aboriginals treasure it as mystical. It was a perfect day of sailing for Destiny; smoothly gliding along at 7 - 8 knots we hardly felt the movement. Listening to the gentle swish of the ocean beneath us was mesmerizing, almost hypnotic. So much so in fact that we were both nearly lulled to sleep. Oh, wait a minute - Frank was!
On approach to Lizard Island we gasped at the beauty of the surrounding reef and the variations of blue sea. So much color! The resort was tucked away around a point and then just beyond that was Watson's Bay where we counted at least 25 boats at anchor with two mega yachts sitting just on the periphery. It was a picture book setting. Or rather a postcard picture waiting to be exploited. Now we know why so many yachties have told us to get here with enough time to enjoy this little paradise. Frank had inquired into booking this resort for my birthday, but the price for three nights was nearly $6,000! That price did include a 2-tank dive that would have normally cost over $600 by itself. I was quite happy with Thala Lodge, thank you. We anchored adjacent to the "Clam Garden" reef in a mere 4 meters of clear blue water. It was 4:30 PM. We made it here in less than 12 hours. What a day!
We settled in and were immediately hailed on the radio by fellow yachties telling us to go to the picnic tables on the beach at 5:00 PM for Sundowners. We joined the assembled group to find some we knew and some we didn't. The air was abuzz as it always is in anticipation of a big passage ahead. We were back among the international group of cruisers who are embarking on a new quest. We love this life!
----------
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At 6 :00 AM we sat ready in the cockpit with coffee in hand, awaiting just enough light to pick our way through the reef system out of Hope Island. Departing winds were a bit of a disappointment, but after a couple of hours they began to steadily build allowing us to sail wing and wing again. What a beautiful day for it. There was quite a bit of traffic from big tankers and cargo ships, some of them passing close enough for us to get a good roll from their wakes, and a few barreled down on us from behind confirming why we try to stick to daytime hops. Besides who wants to miss the view? The coastline along this part of Australia is an ever changing and dramatic landscape that few others are fortunate to even glimpse. We sat for hours just watching it unfold, taking it all in like a tonic to the soul. There are endless stretches of beautiful white sand beaches, interspersed among cliffs and intensely green forests. No wonder the Aboriginals treasure it as mystical. It was a perfect day of sailing for Destiny; smoothly gliding along at 7 - 8 knots we hardly felt the movement. Listening to the gentle swish of the ocean beneath us was mesmerizing, almost hypnotic. So much so in fact that we were both nearly lulled to sleep. Oh, wait a minute - Frank was!
On approach to Lizard Island we gasped at the beauty of the surrounding reef and the variations of blue sea. So much color! The resort was tucked away around a point and then just beyond that was Watson's Bay where we counted at least 25 boats at anchor with two mega yachts sitting just on the periphery. It was a picture book setting. Or rather a postcard picture waiting to be exploited. Now we know why so many yachties have told us to get here with enough time to enjoy this little paradise. Frank had inquired into booking this resort for my birthday, but the price for three nights was nearly $6,000! That price did include a 2-tank dive that would have normally cost over $600 by itself. I was quite happy with Thala Lodge, thank you. We anchored adjacent to the "Clam Garden" reef in a mere 4 meters of clear blue water. It was 4:30 PM. We made it here in less than 12 hours. What a day!
We settled in and were immediately hailed on the radio by fellow yachties telling us to go to the picnic tables on the beach at 5:00 PM for Sundowners. We joined the assembled group to find some we knew and some we didn't. The air was abuzz as it always is in anticipation of a big passage ahead. We were back among the international group of cruisers who are embarking on a new quest. We love this life!
----------
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